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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. However, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.